Bratislava - the Europe's most glamorous city! Well OK, not quite. And truth be told, Bratislava, with fewer than half a million people, is never likely to be. But it might be Europe's most relaxed, because what this city does have is old-town charm, sophisticated restaurants, traditional pubs, good music ranging from jazz to opera, stylish people, and a human scale which means that as a visitor you will not spend half your day trekking in and out of underground stations or getting from the airport into town. All this, and Europe's greatest river – Danube – as a backdrop.
Known as Pressburg to German-speakers or Pozsony to Hungarian-speakers, Bratislava got its present name only 90 years ago. But the city has a long and proud history that dates back to pre-Roman times.
The hillsides on the edge of the city have been home to vineyards for centuries, and close to Bratislava are wine towns where you can taste the best - and it is startlingly good! - that Slovakia has to offer. In the city itself there is plenty to see and do. Bratislava's long history - as home to Celts, Romans, Germans, Hungarians, Jews, and of course Slovaks - means there is an impressive range of architecture, languages and cuisine.
The handsome homes of the Austro-Hungarian noble families who built palaces here dot the city, and many of them are now open to the public as museums and galleries. From the Bratislava Castle, with its long and chequered history (it has been destroyed more than once), there are great views over the mediaeval old town and the Danube valley from its fortifications.
The Danube River itself is, of course, one of the city's main assets. There are several cafes along its banks, within walking distance of the centre, most popular is propably the 'UFO' at the top of SNP Bridge. Alternatively, you can take to the water yourself: daily hydrofoil services link the city with nearby Vienna.
If, having enjoying the food and drink, you feel like walking - or biking - there are almost unlimited opportunities in the forested hills to the north of the city, or along the Danube to the south, where inline skating is also very popular on the scores of kilometres of traffic-free paths.
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